Day 16. Walk walk walk.

One of the things I really, really love about traveling: everyone assumes I am a simpleton. And, seriously, as a tourist, I am. I don't know the language, I don't know how to buy a tram token, I don't know what any of the food on the street is until I taste it. Yesterday, when I gave somebody correct change, he smiled and clapped with surprise, as if I'd done a party trick. I am shamelessly taking advantage of the shillers on the square- if we are going to to the "we are all about Turkish Hospitality" thing, I am going to let them walk me to the tram token window and give me directions. After all these years of being expected to know everything, it is so nice when nobody expects anything at all. Architecture is really damn hard- with every design decision you have to consider solar orientation, environmental impacts, the effect of your building on the public realm, the context of the city, the structural system, material interactions, the digital and physical representation, the graphic design of your presentation, the speech you will give to defend your decisions to your jury- it's exhausting. There's a good reason that, even with a master's degree, I'll have to intern for years before I can sit for licensing exams. Sitting in a cafe eating gozleme (scrumptious salty crumbled cheese pancake, thank you Kristen Hawk) I am totally in the dark about everything going on around me: conversations over the backgammon boards, the lyrics to the music videos playing on the tv, and how to order one of those baklava rolls piled up in the window dripping with honey. This is so fabulous.

So. I have a huge crush on the guy at the kebap shop, on the corner next to Galata Tower. The first time I passed him I was lost, and it was dark, as I headed downhill and stumbled onto the streets of light sellers. He gave me a piercing look as I passed and said, "Hello." The next day, wandering down Istiklal Street, I realized that it dead-ended at the tower, just around a curve. If I'd known the trick of walking straight uphill, from any direction, I would have found it 50 feet away. So again, tumbling downhill, same shop, same hello, same piercing look. I am not flattered by this piercing look, dearly though I would love to be. If you had this man's eyes, my friends, you would not be able to give a look that was not piercing, to anyone. He looks, but exactly, like Luka from E.R. Anyone? Anyone else have a crush on Luka? It is totally him. He is beautiful. I want to go back there and drop something in front of him, like the shoe-shine guys do. They know if they drop something in your path, and you stop to help them pick it up, you have already formed a bond....

On to today. I have gotten into a really nice routine- get up whenever I wake up, linger over breakfast at my lovely pension (fluffy bread, olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, and a boiled egg) and then strike out to see some culture. I am limiting myself, for the most part, to one monument/mosque/museum per day, in order to avoid traveler's burnout. The rest of the time I spend exploring the city. This morning I went with my new Australian friend, Sarah, on a marathon walk while her boyfriend stayed behind to play backgammon in a cafe. We ended up at Dolambache Palace, which I think is fascinating because it was built for sultans to use, but not until the 1800's. It's relatively modern- the harem situation seems a little bit jarring here among the Versailles-style furniture. We wandered up the waterfront, where Sarah had a shoe-shine forcibly administered, before turning back- great fun. After hours of walking, I did some present shopping in the Grand Bazaar- prices tend to drop at sunset when the vendors sense a "last sale of the day" coming on.

In ths Spice Bazaar at dusk: still my favorite. Lured into a tea shop, because the bins of flowery tea and spices were gorgeously piled high in little pyramids, and because the guys out front said, "MICHAEL JORDAN!" when I said Carolina.

"I am not letting you buy Love Tea," sas Kilic.
"I am totally buying Love Tea, Kilic," I say.
"No, no, no. Don't need. You buy Lemon Tea. You buy Rose Tea. You are too beautiful for Love Tea. You just live in the wrong place."

Did I mention, I love Istanbul?

And I did buy Lemon Tea, and Rose Tea, and Love Tea. The Love Tea is for the kebap man in front of Galata Tower. Kilic drew a big heart on my Love Tea with a Sharpie. If all else fails, I am going to drop THAT in front of the kebap man who looks like Luka and see if he takes the hint. Our courtship has progressed dramatically- yesterday we made it to a three-sentence conversation. I walked past and he made a giant ruckus clapping and stamping his feet from the cold.

"Cold today!" I said.
"Yes! Cold today- but tomorrow hot!"

And damned if he didn't manage to give me a piercing look again, while laughing and stomping his feet.

Day 15: Hamam. My dignity is gone (but I don't really miss it.)

Note: This is not for the easily scandalized. Or, Mom. : )

Today: Hamam. Turkish Bath. Does not include modesty...but really, you sort of have to do it if you come to Turkey. Finding this place in the rain was an adventure; I arrived chilled through, and actually wet from the knees down. My hands were raw. I first stopped at the main entrance- women, as it turns out, are sent around the corner, down a little alley to an inauspicious little door that looks like a service entrance, with a battered sign. I followed a cold little stairway up to a wooden room, with cubicles like phone booths all along the perimeter.

I had, from this point on, some idea of what was to happen. I have friends who have visited hamams. I am aware of the age-old tradition of public baths. I sat next to Virginia all semester as she designed a lovely hamam combining new and old traditions. But if you are not familior with the hamam, here is how it goes down:

A matronly, plump lady with her grey hair in a bun gives you a key and shows you to your cubicle.

"Everting oft."

"Everything?" you say.

"Everyting."


Inexplicably, the little changing booth has textured glass for privacy on three sides. The side facing the main entrance: totally transparent.

You are given a small wrap, lock the door, and put on a pair of clompy wooden sandals. You are led to a marble room, maybe 20' X 20', lined with basins and faucets. Overhead is a dome inset with pieces of colored glass, which is beautiful. In the center, taking up about 80 % of the space, is a marble slab. A hot, hot marble slab.

Lady with the bun: "Oft."

She whips off your wrap, which she spreads out on the hot marble. "Down," she says. You are not alone on the slab, which is big enough to hold about 5 people. If, like me, you are 6" longer than your wrap, the marble is hot enough that your toes, wrap-free, feel like they're on fire. You are left to melt, in a really pleasant way, on the slab. There is soft ancient music playing in the background, and all around you is the sound of dripping, from the sauna heat. The warmth seeps in.

A different hammam attendant, the scrubber, wearing a scrap of fabric twisted into a bandeau as a top, comes in and starts very kindly bossing you around. Up. Over. Rinse. Head here. You start at one of the basins, dumping hot water head to toe from a copper bowl. Back to the slab- where you are scrubbed with something scratchy, until you can see down two or three layers of skin. More rinsing and bowls of hot water. The most fun: The scrubber uses some sort of pillowcase to fluff out hot bubbles, head to toe. you are massaged and scrubbed and flipped and bubbled several more times- still lying on the hot slab. After the bubbles- more rinsing, and then your hair is washed. It's not a gentle sort of Robert Redford/Meryl Streep in Out of Africa waching- but a good scrub with many buckets of water dumped unceremoniously over your head. It's actually awesome. After that, you go lie on the slab as long as you like, before you go back to the transparent changing room to dress. This is not the Umstead Spa, for sure- it's pretty gritty, no fluff, no cushy robe, no careful rearranging of the spa sheet to preserve your comfort and privacy. No hairdryer, so you are walking back out onto Istaklal Street with wet hair.

The whole process is terrifying enough that I knew I had to do it. I don't even like changing at the Y, so being in the altogether in a room full of strangers, one of them manhandling me with a loofah, was a bit out of my comfort zone. Deliberately so. People of all ages, shapes, and sizes- nothin' to see here, folks, just going about our shampooing. Really, a very nice tradition.

Day 14. True Love.

I have fallen head over heels in love. They say you never know exactly how and when love will find you...but sometimes it really is love at first sight. I know, already, that this is a bad idea. This particular love affair will cost me too dearly. It won't last. It will start to fray, and wear thin in places, and won't get me as far as I need to go. It will slow me down, and it will leave me with too much baggage. And yet...for a brief and shining moment, it will be glorious....and I'm not sure I have the strength to resist.

I have found The One. Except, The One is actually two- a pair of handmade embroidered Turkish suzani boots. Knee-high, black, with a kaliedoscope of brightly-colored flowers. Waiting for me in the Grand Bazaar. Even if I have the nerve to haggle a little, they are 3 days' worth of spending money on my backpacker budget. But they are SO my type....

What say you, people? Should I take the plunge? To boot? or not to boot??

Day 13: Snippets from the street

ONE: 9:15 a.m. "I could not find you on Facebook!" is the first thing I hear upon leaving my hotel for the Palace. Ozgur, one of the guys hanging on the square, has launched a campaign to have a beer with me. He says he is not shilling- just hanging out with his friends who are shilling- but he is. He is so darn likeable , though, I might have a beer with him anyway. But I am not going into any carpet shops.

TWO: 9:30 a.m. I realize, with no small shame, that I would probably toss aside all of my feminist ideals if somebody invited me to live in the Topkapi Palace harem.

THREE: 2 p.m. Grand Bazaar. I stopped outside in one of the winding lanes leading out of the labyrinth of the Bazaar, in front of a push cart with a giant samovar. I held up a finger for "one please!" expecting tea, but something white came out, steaming hot. The man with the samovar fussed over it for a minute, sprinkling spices on top, and fished out some coins from the change in my hand. Sweet heavenly deliciousness. It was like drinking a cloud. Not a "nog," not a custard, not an "au lait" of any kind- just thick milky cinnamon-y bliss.

FOUR: 2:10 p.m. Grand Bazaar. I am flagged down by a long-haired Turk outside a leather shop. He is pretty entertaining- I am invited in to this impossibly small space, already occupied by four people smoking and drinking tea. A computer is playing Dire Straits on Itunes. I am given a plastic stool, after a round of photographs. Abdullah, the shopkeeper, instructs me to tell all of my friends back home that I have just met Turkey's Antonio Banderas. (Consider it done.) Apparently he is half Spanish. He proceeds to clean my shoes, covered in salt from the slushy streets. As a leather goods salesman he instructs me that, from here on out, I should carry them over my head to protect them. He also makes me read my future in the dregs in a coffee cup. This is some kind of Turkish Rorshach test. I see absolutely nothing resembling anything- and I am a designer, people- and I say quizzically, "That part kind of looks like a bird? Maybe flying? Maybe a trip?" And Abdullah looks at me and says with his eyes, "You are not very good at this game."

FIVE: 4 p.m. I have decided to live in the spice Bazaar. I got hungry walking towards the big bridge, and figured it was my best chance at a cheap meal. I love this place. Today I found the row of cheese sellers- they are each screaming at the top of their lungs like it's a bar fight, but I think they're just saying "CHEESE! CHEESE!!" I stopped at a "kebap" stand. The kid behind the counter said, "Germany?" And I said, "USA." And he said, "America? OBAMA!" and I said yes, and he said, "Obama good! Yes? Yes!" And I proceeded, for 2 lira, to have one of the best meals I've ever eaten. The sliced meat was in a soft puffy pita kind of thing, with fresh parsley and pepper, and something in there was also perfectly deliciously crunchy. I am going back tomorrow.

SIX: 6 p.m. Went up the ancient Galata Tower, across the water. Gorgeous sunset view. I came down and had a vague intention of wandering towards Istikal Street, but with the winding streets leading straight downhill in approximately eight directions, I was immediately confounded and lost. And it was dark. And cold. (I had two maps, actually, but those are for dire emergencies.) I started walking down a pleasant little lane, figuring I'd have to find a cab...and rounded the corner onto a street of light sellers. Both sides gloriously lit up by thousands of beautiful lamps, as far as the eye could see. And I wandered from lane to lane, downhill towards the water, and lane after lane was filled with lights. Surely, a reminder that, even lost in the dark, an improbable plentitude of lights will appear to show you the way home?

Istanbul: This is what the head cheerleader must feel like.

Istanbul: magical snowy wondrous fairy-tale city. I can't even describe how lovely it is- but I arrived in a gorgeous snowstorm. I'm staying between Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque; I was out the door in no time to start taking snow pictures. Quaint winding streets and minarets everywhere; beautiful Turkish language, spiral strings of lanterns hanging from doorways, windows full of rolls and cubes and sugary stacks of Turkish delight. And snow!

I'm having a different sort of tourist issue here than in Indonesia. I have been warned by numerous people about attracting attention from all of these Turkish men; I was not warned that it would be this much fun. These gentlemen are charming, every last one- not remotely lecherous, more "I am falling over because your American beauty has pierced my heart" kind of thing. I mean seriously, when was the last time anyone kissed my hand? Most of them, of course, are trying to sell me a carpet, or a leather jacket. Two different guys tried to engage me in a snowball fight. Some just call you princess, or look stricken and whisper that you are beautiful. The most severe cases actually blush and stammer while trying to entice you for a drink somewhere. I do not have this affect on American gentlemen, mind you. And I also don't care that it's a sales tactic- I'm going to enjoy the flattery. My self esteem could use a boost. And have mercy, these men are devastatingly handsome. I have instituted a policy of not looking into their eyes- snake-charmer eyes, mesmerizing, for sure. One of my all-time favorite movie lines, from Moonstruck, when Cher has just slept with her finace's brother: "You got them bad eyes, like a gypsy, and I don't know why I didn't see it yesterday!" I totally get it. I have to look away.

In more cultural news, I spent the morning at Hagia Sofia. Difficult to overstate the scale; I've never been in a space that huge that wasn't a giant stadium. It has the huge central dome, flanked by two half-domes; seriously, they've made some good educated guesses, but I don't think anyone's sure exactly how that ceiling stays up. It is spectacular. My favorite thing, apart from the domes, is the twisty stone ramps that wind their way to the top instead of staircases. Hagia Sofia, I think, is Turkish for "beautiful unheated building." I sketched for about an hour in the same spot, and had to stop because I realized my fingers were blue and I couldn't feel my feet. Worth it- I'm sure I'll have to go back.

After thawing: decided to go wandering, a habit that drives my mother insane, but it's the only way to get to know a place, as far as I'm concerned. There's no great risk of getting lost here; I'm staying 150 from one of the great landmarks of world civilization, so if I get in a jam I will hand some Lira to a cab driver and say clearly, "HAGIA SOFIA." Anyway, followed the tram line on foot till it reached the waterfront, and accidentally reached a bridge to the other side of the city, just as the sunset turned everything on the far shore golden. Unbelievable vista. I crossed the bridge just for fun so I could visit the other side for a minute, then walked back at dusk into the Spice Bazaar. Riotously beautiful. So glad to be staying a few more days.....

Day 10: Jakarta. Pay for a peanut, get a monkey (or two.)

Jakarta. Low, low expectations- actually, I've sort of been dreading this leg of the trip. It's the only place I didn't really want to go, and was only there for travel logistics. For starters, it's giant, hot, and dirty. When I talked to the Dutch guy who owned the hostel where I stayed in Jogja, I said, "It's one of the biggest cities in the world, right? And he said, "If it earned the distinction of being called a city, it would be- it's certainly a huge collection of people, but by any other definition of architecture, planning, or infrastructure, it's definitely not." Add a few other dimensions: conservative Muslim city, anti-American sentiment, female traveling alone, recent terrorism...you know. Not many selling points.

And so. Arrived at the airport ot check my luggage for a long 12 hour wait between flights, and was dreading trying to pick one out of the mob of cab drivers in the crowd to haggle about a ride into the city and back. A couple of guys at the luggage office offered to be my chauffeur and tour guide- so what the heck, I talked them down to 3 hours for $30 (exorbitant for Indonesia, but what the heck.) They were fun- Ilan and Iwan, although I'm sure it's not spelled like that. We started out at Old Batavia, the original colonial city wtih a collection of crumbling Dutch buildings. Then we went to the Monas, or Independence Monument- neither of the guys had ever been in, so we toured the museum at the bottom. (2 hour wait to get to the top of the needle, for which I was not willing to pay my expensive guides.) Drove past the White House and then, my favorite stop, Obama's elementary school, where there's a lovely statue of him as a child. I learned all kinds of things- Jakarta is not a beautiful city but it is very lively, and would be a fun place to get to know in a gritty kind of way.

The monkeys: Ilan was laughing about tourists being ripped off here, and he said there's a saying that as a tourist, you pay for the peanut and they give you the monkey. I think it loses something in translation, but I'm taking that to mean that they charge you so much for the peanut, they throw in the whole monkey for free. Kind of like my exorbitant tour: $30, three hours, and two monkeys (and I mean that most affectionately.) Toward the end of the tour Ilan started to give me long penetrating looks- you can always tell when things take that turn. Of course he knew from the luggage office my flight wasn't until midnight, so he came and "bumped into me" a couple of hours later at the airport and insisted on buying me a lemonade. I had to pull out my first fake boyfriend story of the trip. Totally harmless....a little dramatic there at the end, "Oh stay just a few minutes so I can keep talking to you....I know you are going to forget all about me...." Oh my. I think he was just feeling guilty about overcharging me.

Cute vignette- waiting for my flight at midnight, hot tired, disheveled again. Decided to pull out my Ipod and had enough time to watch an episode of "Arrested Development." I was just at the point where the mom says, "Would you just look at what the homosexuals have done to me?" and the son says, "Can't you just comb that out??" (can't even type that without snickering,) and I was indeed snickering in my seat when I felt someone staring hard at me. I heard a little, "Hahlooo!" and at was the cutest, tiniest little lady next to me, of totally indeterminate age. She was wearing a headscarf, but with some structure behind it- she atually reminded me more of Yoda than anything else, mainly because of being so tiny and so wise looking. She was delightful- she has six children, and is professor of education, and wanted me to come stay with her in her village, and then asked for my Facebook info. I love it. Another moment of solitude, diverted into a much better use of my time.

And then, glory of glories, an overseas flight- with a whole row to myself.

Day 9: Paparazzi, religion, and rickshaws

One last climb up Borabudur- I had admittedly been racing past the famous stone reliefs for a couple of days, unable to figure out exactly how they represented the stories and tenets of Buddhism even with a map. These thousands of panels are integral to the whole instructive spiritual significance of the temple, but I confess I've found them a bit...dull. Last night I was lazing about in my room and discovered a continuous-loop video which brought the panels to life a bit; I was anxious to go bak up and pick out a few key scenes I felt I cold identify. Again, it was not to be. 7:30 is alarmingly early for me- but the hordes of tour buses were already there. Today's school children were armed not only with an assignment to interview foreigners for practice, but also with laminated instruction cards, checklists of questions, and speeches about Borobudur. Before I reached the first level, I'd been interviewed and photographed a few times, and halfway around I met a group with the lamitated cards. They were adorable. They asked questions, recited some information, and asked, "Do you like dancing?" and I said, "Nope." And they laughed and said, "Yes, yes, you do!" And I said, "I like to watch dancing." And they insisted on teaching me some Indonesian dance steps- actually, quite elegant and beautiful, Bali-style. By that time I'd already wilted in the sun and my time was up. Slipping back down the stairs and heading towards the hotel, I started to hear an alarming sound of frantic flippety-flopping feet- Miss! Miss! - and the crowd got bigger, and I feared a Beatles-style mob. I was photographed about a dozen more times and had kids with leaflets following me as I backed away slowly, saying "Thank you! You speak very good English! My time is up...." And by 8:30 a.m., I was spent.

The rest of the day: a dizzying array of temples and world heritage sites. I am so, so grateful- my hostel asked what I wanted to see and put together a tour for me and sent a driver. For $15 I got 8 hours with a private guide, and he was a really good storyteller so I got all kinds of information about Indonesia, and everything else. Adi will be one of the highlighs of my trip- he told me about his family, and his home in Sulawesi, and his wife who works in the rice fields, and how he learned English working at the U.S. Embassy in Jakarta- he was finally let go because so few Americans visit here these days. He was actually working in Bali in 2002 when the bombs went off- he was headed to pick someone up in Kuta Beach where the explosion happened, when he got a call on his cell phone to turn around, fast.

So- Adi drove me first to the two smaller temples which form a straight line to Borobudur. If you were making a pilgrimage, you'd start at Mendut, where the stone carvings tell stories of the foolishness of animals- meant to remind us of the contradictions within ourselves. Inside there's a huge, graceful Buddha with dangling feet. Next you'd make your way down a hill to cross a smal river, then up and down again to cross another; then you'd stop and rest at Pawan temple, very small and simple. Then you'd begin the final climb to Borobudur. By car all of these temples are in a straight east/west line within about 2 miles; on foot, with two rivers to cross, it would have been a much more significant effort.

After the temples: 45 minute drive to Prambanan, a huge Hinu temple complex. We had to drive across the foothills of Mt. Merapi, an active volcano, to get there, and through the rice fields in the countryside. Prambanan, for sure, is spectacular; three large temples to Bramah, Shivah, and Vishnu, and many smaller temples all around. Unfortunately I got the rock star treatment there, too- I could not go more than a few steps in any direction without photographs and stares and giggles. On the grounds there are also three Buddhist temples, mostly ruins, one of them huge. Then on to a place called Ratu Boko: I have no idea what I was looking at there, as it was kind of a bonus and I was totally unprepared and all the signs were in Indonesian, but it was also huge. It was a giant complex containing, I think, a palace throne room, sacred pools, women's quarters, a temple, and several other structures. Pretty much all that was left was foundations- I still need to go back and study up on what I saw. By that stage of the game I was a little hot and tired and had temple fatigue; at some point I wandered through a patch of something with sticky seeds, so my long black skirt was covered from the knee down in little cling-ons; generally disheveled and hot.

Was sorely tempted to stay in for the evening after that, but Yogyakarta (Jogja for short) is a funky, gritty little city, and knowing I was not likely to pass through again, decided to venture out alone. Adi drove me down to the main drag, Malioboro Street, to a crazy little side alley known as a backpacker's street. It looked like the kind of street that would have opium dens. Adi warned me to stay from a few buildings which housed "ladies of the night." The hostel owner had assured me it was perfectly safe to be out alone at night; Adi was less convinced. He gave me about 20 instructions- passport locked up? Money safe? You don't talk to anybody long. You need something, some cab, you tell the restaurant people for you, ok? Adi is exactly 2 years older than I am- but I appreciated the fatherly wisdon.

Dinner was unremarkable, but the ride home was fun. I had instructions, typed in Indonesian with a map, to give to the bike rickshaw guy I found on the street; I assumed that would be sufficient, but didn't take into account that the driver might not be able to read. Anyway, with a few stops along the way to assure him that no, we were not yet anywhere near my destination, I got a nice ride down the "Champs Elysees" of Jogja, with the Sultan's Palace all lit up in the distance, and the crazy, loud conglomeration of people crusing by using every possible form of transportation all around us.