Istanbul: This is what the head cheerleader must feel like.

Istanbul: magical snowy wondrous fairy-tale city. I can't even describe how lovely it is- but I arrived in a gorgeous snowstorm. I'm staying between Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque; I was out the door in no time to start taking snow pictures. Quaint winding streets and minarets everywhere; beautiful Turkish language, spiral strings of lanterns hanging from doorways, windows full of rolls and cubes and sugary stacks of Turkish delight. And snow!

I'm having a different sort of tourist issue here than in Indonesia. I have been warned by numerous people about attracting attention from all of these Turkish men; I was not warned that it would be this much fun. These gentlemen are charming, every last one- not remotely lecherous, more "I am falling over because your American beauty has pierced my heart" kind of thing. I mean seriously, when was the last time anyone kissed my hand? Most of them, of course, are trying to sell me a carpet, or a leather jacket. Two different guys tried to engage me in a snowball fight. Some just call you princess, or look stricken and whisper that you are beautiful. The most severe cases actually blush and stammer while trying to entice you for a drink somewhere. I do not have this affect on American gentlemen, mind you. And I also don't care that it's a sales tactic- I'm going to enjoy the flattery. My self esteem could use a boost. And have mercy, these men are devastatingly handsome. I have instituted a policy of not looking into their eyes- snake-charmer eyes, mesmerizing, for sure. One of my all-time favorite movie lines, from Moonstruck, when Cher has just slept with her finace's brother: "You got them bad eyes, like a gypsy, and I don't know why I didn't see it yesterday!" I totally get it. I have to look away.

In more cultural news, I spent the morning at Hagia Sofia. Difficult to overstate the scale; I've never been in a space that huge that wasn't a giant stadium. It has the huge central dome, flanked by two half-domes; seriously, they've made some good educated guesses, but I don't think anyone's sure exactly how that ceiling stays up. It is spectacular. My favorite thing, apart from the domes, is the twisty stone ramps that wind their way to the top instead of staircases. Hagia Sofia, I think, is Turkish for "beautiful unheated building." I sketched for about an hour in the same spot, and had to stop because I realized my fingers were blue and I couldn't feel my feet. Worth it- I'm sure I'll have to go back.

After thawing: decided to go wandering, a habit that drives my mother insane, but it's the only way to get to know a place, as far as I'm concerned. There's no great risk of getting lost here; I'm staying 150 from one of the great landmarks of world civilization, so if I get in a jam I will hand some Lira to a cab driver and say clearly, "HAGIA SOFIA." Anyway, followed the tram line on foot till it reached the waterfront, and accidentally reached a bridge to the other side of the city, just as the sunset turned everything on the far shore golden. Unbelievable vista. I crossed the bridge just for fun so I could visit the other side for a minute, then walked back at dusk into the Spice Bazaar. Riotously beautiful. So glad to be staying a few more days.....