Around the World in 60 Days

Adventures, misadventures, characters, unsolicited opinions, observations, and images from eight countries, eight weeks, and an array of architectural treasures.

Monday, March 1, 2010

Last day in Italy


Rejoining the urban design and public realm treatise I started way back in Italy:

The whole public realm thing is even more clear in Siena than it is in Florence. Since it's a gothic city, and essentially a fortress, the streets are pleasantly narrow, and the buildings are all fairly tall. Walking through the streets you get a real sense of shelter, of protection, of compression- and most of all, community. You're not in a car, you're face to face with your neighbors and shopkeepers and elected officials and family and tourists, all the time, and everyone rises to the occasion and behaves accordingly. In a place like this, you can feel the ¨We're all in this together¨ spirit. If the enclosure of the street starts to feel a bit much, you just duck down one of the slanting arched passageways into the Piazzo del Campo, which is a sudden vast and sunny expanse. Here, the behavior changes dramatically, The openness and wide, slanting piazza seems to make people a little giddy. Tiny people start spinning or jumping, teenagers do teenager things, and everyone else just plops down to enjoy it all, either at a cafe table or onto the brick piazza itself. There are eleven streets leading off this piazza- but they're pretty well hidden and tucked away. The buildings surrounding the piazza make a varied, but consistent, wall around it all, so it's a really nice street room. A huge one.

And so, to wrap up this whole urban design tangent, we need more of this, everywhere. Raleigh's working on it, and making some good progress. More pedestrian, thoughtfully considered, dynamic spaces, wehre people in the community interact, face-to-face. It's much harder to participate in civic life, and feel like a part of the fabric of the community, when you have to spend your days moving from enclosed house to enclosed car to enclosed office, and back. I'm all for more truly public places for people to gather- informally, to have a drink on the sidewalk, or riotously, like a carnivale parade, or politically, whether it's a health care reform rally or a Tea Party fest. We all know which side of this I'm on, I just went off on Sarah Palin again, but one of the great things about a democracy is that everyone has a voice. You don't like something? Speak up. State your case. It keeps us balanced. And where does all of this healthy activity take place? The public realm. It needs expanding.

Back, then, for one more night in Florence, and tomorrow to Spain. One week in Italy: not nearly enough. But I'm leaving with some lovely, lovely* sights tucked away in my memory, and a shopping bag full of Italian groceries, which I will share when I get home.

*I am throwing the double ¨lovely¨ in for Arrie. She and Jess, two of my favorite Raliegh-ites, have been following my trip on a map this whole time, and commenting on my progress. When Arrie mentioned they need to do some catching up on both the blog and the map, I suggested they just make it a drinking game, and take a drink everytime I say ¨lovely,¨or change cities or something, and then guzzle for a bike crash or a failed Italian love affair (not sure which is more scarring in the long run.) If you´re in the same catch-up boat, I invite you to do the same. Lovely lovely lovely.

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